I leave Scotland in less than a week, on Monday the 4th of October, after three years experiencing this beautiful part of the world from a home base of Edinburgh. A city that definitely holds a special place in my heart, but that is a story for another time.
This post is a Wip Around the World special. To remember an epic 4 day road trip, share some pictures and try to convince you that Scotland is totally worth your time to visit.
This past weekend I took my motorbike round the North coast 500 of Scotland, completing a personal goal that I set myself ever since I found out I would be coming to study in Edinburgh. Just in time. It was touch and go if I would actually manage it at one point.
After getting a taste for it with a short trip to Fort William and Skye with Ben and Pip earlier this summer though, there was no way I was not going to squeeze this in.
Dam am I buzzing that I did it. It is hard to put into words the rugged beauty of the place.
The trip brought back memories of northern Vietnam. Doug, you were missed mate.
Motorbiking reminds me of skiing. It is intoxicating and addictive. I cannot recommend it highly enough. Although like skiing it is a privileged past time that I feel lucky to have been able to partake in. Big thanks to my brothers partner Sam for donating me his lovely little cruiser to get started with.
Here she is in all her glory.
And this was my route.
Told you I completed it. Well not quite, but I covered a good chunk of the country. I would love to get across to the Orkney's sometime though.
Each of my days on the road were long, some more so than others. Fortunately I had my music to keep me going, and miss google in charge of the directions. Both were a key to the success of this trip. I listened to 400 tunes across the four days! Crazy numbers, must be over 24 hours playtime.
Friday: Edinburgh - Stirling - Spittal of Glenshee - Inverness - Strathpeffer
109 songs.
First up Stirling, "the heart of scotland" as the signs like to point out is about 90 minutes along some backroads out of Edinburgh. The backroads are chilling, way better than the motorway which I am not allowed on anyway as a learner.
Stirling seems like a nice little city, I stopped for a quick coffee and visited the castle which has many similarities with Edinburgh castle.
From the castle the Wallace momument, to Sir William Wallace. A leader of the Scottish War of Independence against the English scum. Who knows maybe one day Sturgeon will get a momument.
From Stirling it was up into the Cairngorm mountains along the mountain road, not the A9. I greatly dislike the A9.
The backroad was good but this was probably the worst day of scenery to oggle of the trip.
Still not shabby at all though. As my leftover Mania's pizza pit stop shows.
It did get windy at points though which took some getting used to on the bike.
Along the way you pass a few ski slopes aswell, which look fun. I am gutted I never managed to make it skiing in Scotland during my time here.
After a pretty tough final stint, largely on the A9, a straight mostly boring road that seems to last forever I arrived in Inverness for a quick bite to eat. Then it was on to my lodgings in Strathpeffer. This last part was in the dark too which was not ideal, brought me back to times in Vietnam. However unlike in Vietnam I was staying in this huge 19th century Victorian spa house.
This is the Holly Lodge and it served as my base for the weekend. I stayed in that top tower room. A cosy little nook of the house with a single bed in. It was actually perfect for my needs and very reasonably priced. Including a top breakfast and a friendly hostess.
Saturday: Strathpeffer - Loch Maree - Lochinver
Saturday was my most relaxed day of riding. Only 76 tunes worth. This was because thanks to Ben's recommendation I ended up booking a night in at the An Cala Bunkhouse and spending the night in Lochinver, instead of attempting to get back to base. Thank god for that too, otherwise Saturday would have been up to at least 100 tunes and Sunday might not have been possible.
First highlight of Saturday was Loch Maree and this enticing road down to it. Apparently Queen Victoria visited this bit of water and was mightily impressed back in the day.
After that I stopped in Inverewe gardens. A 56 acre tropical paradise on the high up on north west coast of Scotland.
All thanks to the gulf stream and these mighty trees, wind protectors and guardians of the gardens for over a century.
Some pretty mad stuff. Like this giant rhubarb, literally you could stand beneath it.
Or this chilling butterfly.
My mum would have enjoyed it here. All the plants.
Next was Ullapool. A large(ish) town, but not much to report here. I only stopped for a bite. It didn't wow me, but I didn't give it much chance.
Then on to Lochinver.
Past many stunning views.
Many.
This was one of the best stints of the trip. Mostly along a winding but generous single track road with little traffic that was perfect for the motorbike. I wouldn't have enjoyed driving anything much bigger though. On a motorbike you get to experience the scenery in a different way that inside a car I think. Your more a part of it.
Lochinver and the surrounding area also includes some incredible beaches. On top of the mountains. It makes this area the place I would recommend you visit if you can only go to one spot. And I didn't even get across to Achiltibuie, a part of the coast within the vicinity that is highly recommended in my guidebook.
The Assynt coastal trail also looked worthy a more thorough explore if I had had the time. I did spend my evening at the a beach Ben recommended to me which was lovely.
Sunday: Lochinver - Oldshoremore Beach - Durness - Dunnets Head - John O'Groats - Strathpeffer
This day was hench. 122 tracks. I set off at 8am and didn't get back until a similar time in the evening.
The early morning was peaceful and glorious part of the day.
Then a detour to Kinlochbervie and Oldshoremore beach, another recommendation, this time from someone I have been collaborating with in Edinburgh around the MyData initiative since close to the start of my time here.
I didn't get many photos of me this trip, but my bag deserved an honorary photo. This trooper has been all over Asia with me, including all round Vietnam on the bike where it picked up a few battle scars. Although carrying the bugger was a blag at times, its not like Vietnam where you could just jerry rig some storage using a few bungee cords. Or maybe you could but I didn't. I just tried to pack light.
Next stop was Durness. Which also has some lovely beaches, although about feck all else. At least on Sunday and in covid times. I had to make do with a spa for my lunch.
There would be a picture of some Durness beaches here, but whilst eating my lunch I got distracted by this completely bonkers dude who chatted some absolute bollocks at me for the duration of my stop here. Some sort of time-travelling, universe creating life form that fancied a taste of the Scottish life from what I could gather. Top off, crate of Tennents in hand and bottle of whisky in the back pocket. Fair play, doing it right.
I am not sure if he had completely lost the plot, or was just taking the piss throughout the entire conversation. Still, he was a friendly chap.
After that encounter it was on to the mighty peat bog, I think the largest in Europe or something. Proper fat carbon sink.
Met another friendly chap in the bothy. The peat bog monster.
Then on to the Kyle of Tongue. With views of the same mountain as earlier, but from a different, closer perspective.
Then, finally, I made it to the far north. I was getting tired by this point.
The goal was Dunnet's Head. Britain's most northern point. Which after hearing about I knew I just had to visit. Doug and I conquered the Vietnamese north pole, so how could I not go to Britain's.
It was another detour. All the way to that lighthouse on the cliff above.
Then final stop of the day. John O'Groats. I probably should have asked someone to get a photo of me at this point, but by the time I arrived I couldn't really be arsed. I was ready for home.
Unfortunately Holly Lodge was still some distance away. A full 2 and a half hours slog down the A9. My arse was sore and my body stiff by the time I eventually made it back. I made sure to pick up a bottle of wine enroute to soothe my weary bones.
Monday: Strathpeffer - Loch Ness - Fort William - Edinburgh
On Monday I experienced a taste of what I imagine Scotland is usually like. Rain. Continuous, relentless rain.
Which made the start of my day a bit miserable. But actually out on the bike the rain isn't so bad. I was fully wrapped up and basically waterproof. The rain even brought out a different side of the highlands that I quite enjoyed.
Especially driving round Loch Ness. Which was incredible. I should have a picture, but I couldn't be bothered to stop and I was enjoying myself too much. The roads were just so much fun to drive on a motorbike.
I got a few rainy pictures around Fort William. By which time the weather was oscilating between downpours and the odd sunny spell.
Nice little rainbow.
Then the drive from Fort William through Glen Coe and down through the Trossacks was equally amazing.
Despite the weather I thoroughly enjoyed Monday. I almost took the A9 down through the Cairngorms, which would have saved me about 90 minutes but I know I would have been miserable the whole way.
I drove the last stretch back to Edinburgh with the evening sun at my back and arrived back with a massive grin on my face.
It was an amazing four days.
So should you visit the Scottish Highlands? Absolutely, definitely, 100 percent yes. And if you are even half tempted to motorbike it, then go for it! It is totally worth it.